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I have a project due by 12 February that I need assistance to complete. I will provide what is needed in the attachments below. The project consist of PC Manual & Build. Please let me know if you need anymore information then what I will provide. Attached is the rubric, assignment and example of how the overall assignment should be laid out.
How to Change the Oil in Your Car on the WikiHow website is available under a Creative Commons AttributionNoncommercial-Share Alike 3.0 license. How to Change the Oil in Your Car
Regularly changing your car's engine oil and filter is one of the most important things you can do to keep
your car running well. Over time, your oil will break down and your filter will become clogged with
contaminants. Depending upon your driving habits and type of vehicle, this may take as few as 3 months
or 3,000 miles (4,800 km), or be as long as 20,000 miles (32,000 km) or 24 months (consult your owner's
manual for service intervals). Fortunately, changing your oil is both easy and inexpensive, so the sooner
you change the oil in your car if it needs it, the better. Part 1 of 4: Draining the Oil 1 Lift your car. Use either jacks or ramps. On a flat even surface, place the parking brake on and jack your car up, bracing it with jack stands. Improper jack-placement can damage your car badly, so always
refer to the owner's manual for the instructions for your specific car. It's also extremely dangerous to
work under a car that's still on a jack, so make sure you brace it first.
• If you want to use ramps to lift your car, make sure you brace the back tires with blocks. Have
someone to spot as you drive up the ramps, to make sure you don't drive off the other end. 1 2 Let car heat up a bit to get the oil warm. 2 or 3 minutes of idling should be sufficient to get the oil churned up a bit so it will drain more quickly. Solid particles of dirt and grime are caught in the oil and
tend to settle to the bottom when the oil is cold. Letting it run ensures you're getting the crankcase
cleaned out thoroughly.
• While the car idles, assemble the necessary tools. You'll need your new oil, a new filter, a pan
and newspaper to catch the draining oil, and probably a socket wrench and a flashlight. Consult
your owner's manual to determine the type of oil and filter you'll need. • Any auto shop will also be able to tell you the kind of oil and type of filter you'll need as long as
you provide them with the make and model of your car. 2 3 Remove the oil cap. Open the hood and locate the oil cap on top of the engine. This is where you'll add oil after you're done draining the old oil. Doing this will help the oil drain more easily because air
can flow in as the crankcase empties. 3 4 Find the oil pan. Under your car, look for a flat metal pan closer to the engine than the transmission. It should have a bolt or plug toward the bottom. This is the oil plug you'll need to remove to let the oil
drain. Directly under the plug, place your pan and a couple of newspapers for catching the oil.
• If you can't distinguish the oil pan from the transmission pan, let the car run for five or ten
minutes. The oil plug should get warm to the touch by that time, while the transmission won't. 4 5 Remove the oil plug. Loosen the plug counter-clockwise using the proper sized socket or crescent wrench if you've got room to maneuver. You should also remove and replace the circular paper (or felt)
drain plug gasket, but a metal washer can be re-used if in good condition.
• The oil will come out of the pan as soon as you do this, and it will come at a slight angle, so it can
be tricky to catch. Once you've loosened the plug with your wrench, remove it the rest of the
way with your hand. Make sure you've got your big catch-pan and newspapers placed before
you remove the plug. Also be careful not to drop the plug in the oil, it's a messy job trying to find
the plug in the black stuff. If you do drop it in the pan, you can easily find it with a magnet.
Ideally, use the type that is at the end of an expandable rod. • Another easy way to "save" the drain plug is to use a funnel with a bit of screening in it. Catch
the plug as it falls out. You can then pull the funnel out of the way of the stream and set it to
one side. • If you need more leverage to remove the oil plug, an extension such as a pipe segment on your
ratchet handle can help. If this type of "breaker-bar" arrangement is required it was way too
tight. • You'll probably get oil on your hands and clothes at some point during this process. Putting
down newspaper is a smart precaution, or else you'll have big oil stains on your driveway or
garage you'll have to clean up.
5 6 Wait. It will take several minutes for all the oil to drain out of the car. When the oil has ceasing running out of the crankcase, replace the plug. Hand tighten to make sure you're not cross-threading
the oil plug when you screw it back in, and tighten the rest of the way with your wrench. Don't forget to
install a replacement gasket or washer.
• While you're poking around under the car, though, take a minute to locate the blue or whitecolored cylinder that is the oil filter. You'll need to replace this next. 6 Part 2 of 4: Replacing the Oil Filter 1 Locate the filter assembly. Filters are not put in a standard position, so they can be on the front, back or side of engines depending on the model. Look at the replacement filter you purchased to have some
idea of what to look for. Typically, they're white, blue, or black cylinders about 4–6 inches (10.2–
15.2 cm) long and 3 inches (7.6 cm) wide, like a soup can.
• Some vehicles such as BMW, Mercedes, and newer Volvos may have a filter element or
cartridge as opposed to the simpler spin-on type. They require you to open the cap of a built-in
reservoir and lift out the filter element itself. 7 2 Unscrew the oil filter. Get a good grip and twist slow and steadily, counter-clockwise. The plastic coating and grease in the engine compartment often makes the filter somewhat slippery, but it
shouldn't be more than hand-tight. Use a rag or mechanics gloves with a grip to help. A filter wrench is
basically a rubber belt you grip the filter with, which you could fasten from an old belt of yours or an old
alternator belt you've got laying around the garage.
• Make sure the pan is still under the car catching the spilling oil. There will be some trapped in
the filter that will come out when you unscrew it. • When removing the oil filter, make sure that the rubber gasket ring comes off with the filter. If it
sticks to the car, the new filter won't seal properly and will leak. If it does stick, peel it off with
your fingers or use a screwdriver to scrape off any sticky bits. • To avoid spilling too much oil as you remove the filter, you can wrap a plastic bag around the
filter, which will catch any oil that escapes as you remove it. Let it sit upside down in the bag to
drain as you complete the job. 8 3 Prepare the new filter. Dip the tip of your finger in the new replacement oil and smear it on the gasket ring of the new filter. This will lubricate the gasket and create a good seal for the new filter, and
ensure that you'll be able to get it off the next time.
• You can also pour a tiny amount of oil into the filter prior to installing it. This will reduce the
amount of time your car takes to regain proper oil pressure. If your filter is mounted vertically,
you may be able to fill it almost to the top. If mounted at an angle then a little oil will spill just
prior to spinning the filter on but that will not amount to much. 9 4 Carefully screw on the new, lubricated filter, being careful to not cross the threads. The filter will generally say how tight to tighten it, so look to the specifications on the box for more specific
instructions. In general, you'll tighten the filter until the gasket touches, then a quarter-turn more. 10 Part 3 of 4: Adding New Oil 1 Add new oil to the car at the fill hole. The amount you need is in the owner's manual, usually listed under "capacities."
• If you hold the bottle with the spout on top, it will pour more smoothly, without bubbling. • Make sure you're adding the correct oil. Typically, you can safely add 10W-30 to most cars in a
pinch, but you should consult your owner's manual or the experts at an auto shop before adding
oil. • Don't always rely on the dipstick for an accurate measurement; it can be off, especially if the
engine has just been run (the stick will read low because there is still oil in the galleries). If you
want to check the stick accurately, just check it first thing in the morning, parked on a level
surface, when it's cold and settled. 11 2 Replace the fill cap. Check around for any loose tools you might have left around and close the hood.
• It's a good idea to wipe up any spills as best you can. While it's not dangerous to get a little oil
on the crankcase as you're pouring, it may smoke as the engine heats up, leading to that burning
oil smell that can be momentarily frightening. It can also make your interior smell bad. 12 3 Start the engine. Watch to be sure the oil pressure light goes off after start-up. Put your car in park or neutral with the parking brake on to check for any drips and look carefully under the car to check for any
leaks or drips. If the filter and drain plug aren't tight, they may leak slowly. Run the engine for a minute
or so to get the pressure up and ensure you've installed everything correctly. 13 4 Reset the oil change light. This will differ depending upon the make and model of your car, so you should consult the owner's manual to figure out the specific set of steps. On most GM cars, for instance,
you'll need to shut the car off and then turn the ignition on without turning the car over. Next, pump the
gas pedal three times in ten seconds. When you start the car back up, the lights should be reset. 14 Part 4 of 4: Disposing of Oil 1 Transfer the oil to a sealing container. Now that you've changed your oil, get the sludgy gunk into a more permanent container. Adding it to the new container you've just emptied is the safest bet. Use a
plastic funnel in the bottle and pour slowly to ensure you don't spill any. Clearly mark the bottle "used
oil" so you don't mistake it for the real thing.
• Other options include old milk jugs, windshield washer-fluid jugs, or other plastic bottles. Be
very careful anytime you're using old food bottles to clearly mark it. • Don't put old oil in containers that held chemicals like bleach, pesticides, paint, or antifreeze.
These will contaminate the recycling process. 15 2 Make sure your oil filter is drained. You can add this oil (sometimes as much as 8 oz.) to the old oil. Filters are also recyclable, so hang onto them. 16 3 Find a designated collection site in your area. Typically, all places that sell motor oil will have this information on hand. Retailers that sell more than 1,000 filters in a year are required to accept old
filters.[1] Many service stations that do oil changes will also take your used oil, though sometimes for a
small fee. 17 4 Try recycled oil next time. Used motor oil is refined until it meets the same certifications and specifications of virgin oil. The process requires less energy than pumping and refining new oil and
recycling motor oil helps to reduce the need of foreign oil imported. In some cases, recycled oil also
costs less than "new" oil. Tips
• For a very stubborn filter, using a hammer and a large screwdriver as a sort of "chisel" can push
the filter counter-clockwise. Be advised: once you punch hole in this thin filter wall, the engine
cannot be started until it's replaced. • There are some oil drain valves on the market that replace your normal drain pan bolt. These
can make oil changes much more convenient and can reduce the amount of mess you make. • Consider having a green, eco-friendly oil absorbent product on hand in case you spill some oil.
They will absorb oil and will keep your garage and driveway clean. Kitty litter or clay-based
products are not effective solutions for this. You can find a wide variety of eco-friendly oil
absorbent products online. They are extremely absorbent, easy to use and renewable. • To avoid getting oil all over your arm when removing the drain plug bolt, apply inward force (as
if you are trying to push the plug back into the hole) while removing it. When you know that bolt
is fully unscrewed, quickly pull it away from the opening. If you're lucky only a few drops will get
on your hand. Tie a rag around your wrist when you remove the oil plug.
18 • Use disposable nitrile gloves. Used motor oil contains many toxic contaminants and can be
easily absorbed through your skin. Warnings
• Don't get the oil inlet confused with the transmission fluid inlet. You can ruin your transmission
if you put oil in it. • Be careful not to burn yourself. Your engine, the used oil inside it, and other parts of the car can
stay hot enough to burn you for a long time after you turn the ignition off. Things You’ll Need
• 4–6 liters (1.1–1.6 US gal) of oil. Make sure you use oil that meets the API performance rating
for your vehicle. Most vehicles made since 2004 require rating "SM", which is better than the oil
that was available when older cars were made. • Socket wrench. For European or Japanese cars you will likely need a metric set. • Oil filter. Some come with a grippy coating that makes the filter easier to install and tighten. • Oil filter wrench (optional). There are different size oil wrenches available depending on the
diameter of the filter. The expensive one that is double articulated is the surest one to use. • A way to get your car off the ground. Ramps or a jack stand are the safest bets. • A pan to catch the used oil in, and a funnel and sturdy gallon jugs to transport it. • Oil rags or paper towel. • Some vehicles require you to remove top or bottom panels, which might require additional
tools. Sources and Citations
1. http://www.pca.state.mn.us/index.php/living-green/living-green-citizen/household-hazardouswaste/changing-your-oil-an-earth-friendly-guide-for-do-it-yourselfers.html 19
PC Build and Manual Part 1
Competencies Level 3: 90100% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% This includes:
Applying IT best
practices in
working with
computer
systems:
Section 1:
Workspace
Preparation Follow proper procedures and protocols in
completing IT-related tasks: Sections 1 - 5 of
the manual Developing
documentation or
a manual for a
given equipment
or task:
Section 2:
Installing
Motherboard
Section 3:
Installing Power
Supply
Section 4:
Installing CPU
Section 5:
Installing RAM Competency Level 3: 90100%
This includes: Develop a proposal to design or procure a
computer system based on business needs Selecting the
appropriate parts
to build and
design a
computer system:
Selecting an
appropriate
power supply,
CPU, and RAM Competency Level 3: 90100%
This includes: Satisfy standards of writing style and
grammatical correctness. Using IEEE
citation style
Using credible
reasoning, appropriate
research, and
supporting
evidence in
communication
Synthesizing
sources
appropriately
using
paraphrase,
summary, and
quotation
Satisfying
standards of
writing style and
grammatical
correctness,
including the use
of industrystandard
terminology and
vocabulary
Overall Score Level 3: 90100% Level 2 80- Level 1: Minimally
Not Proficient
89%
Proficient 70 - 79% PC Build and Manual Part 2
Competencies Level 3: 90100% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% This includes:
Developing
documentation or
a manual for a
given equipment
or task:
Section 6:
Installing Hard
Drive
Follow proper procedures and protocols in
completing IT-related tasks: Sections 6 - 10 of Section 7:
Installing Optical
the manual
Drive
Section 8:
Installing Video
Card
Section 9:
Connecting
Monitors,
Keyboard, and
Mouse
Section 10: BIOS
Configuration
Competency Level 3: 90100% This includes:
Selecting the
appropriate parts
to build and
design a
computer system:
Develop a proposal to design or procure a
computer system based on business needs Selecting an
appropriate hard
drive, optical
drive, and video
card
Configuring
computer system:
BIOS Competency Level 3: 90100% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% This includes:
Using IEEE
citation style
Using credible
reasoning,
appropriate
research, and
supporting
evidence in
communication Satisfy standards of writing style and
grammatical correctness. Synthesizing
sources
appropriately
using
paraphrase,
summary, and
quotation
Satisfying
standards of
writing style and
grammatical
correctness,
including the use
of industrystandard
terminology and
vocabulary Overall Score Level 3: 90100% Level 2 80- Level 1: Minimally
89%
Proficient 70 - 79% Not
Proficient PC Build and Manual Part 3
Competencies Level 3: 90100% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% Level 2:
80-89% Level 1: Minimally
Not proficient
Proficient 70 - 79% This includes: Follow proper procedures and protocols in
completing IT-related tasks: Sections 11 - 12
of the manual Competency Developing
documentation or
a manual for a
given equipment
or task:
Section 11:
Installing
Windows 7
Section 12:
Configuring
Critical Windows
Features
Level 3: 90100%
This includes: Develop a proposal to design or procure a
computer system based on business needs Configuring
computer system:
Windows 7
Windows
features Competency Level 3: 90100%
This includes:
Using IEEE
citation style Satisfy standards of writing style and
grammatical correctness. Using credible
reasoning,
appropriate
research, and
supporting
evidence in
communication
Synthesizing
sources
appropriately
using
paraphrase,
summary, and
quotation
Satisfying
standards of
writing style and
grammatical correctness,
including the use
of industrystandard
terminology and
vocabulary
Overall Score Level 3: 90100% Level 2 80- Level 1: Minimally
89%
Proficient 70 - 79% Not
Proficient
PC Build and Manual (Parts 1-3) You will provide a comprehensive and detailed manual documenting the step-by-step process for
building a computer using the components provided in LabSim 13.1: “Build a Computer from
Scratch.” The manual will be used by entry-level technicians, so it should be clear, concise, and
formatted using the IEEE citation style, with screenshots of each step from LabSim 13.1. Your
manual should be similar to step-by-step instructions on How to Change the Oil in Your Car.
Note carefully how in this example, not only is each step described individually, and in detail,
but also there is a visual representation of each step. You should model your submission along
the same lines. Keep in mind that your manual will be used as a guide for new technicians.
The manual should not document how to complete a LabSim section; rather, it should provide
detailed instructions on how to build an actual computer for a potential customer: "Drag the motherboard from the shelf to the motherboard plate in the system case." "After properly grounding yourself, pick up the motherboard and place it inside the area where
the motherboard will sit in the case. Align the screw holes on the motherboard with the screw
holes on the case. Use appropriate screws to mount the motherboard inside the case, making sure
not to scratch the surface of the motherboard."
To learn about the required parts which must be present in your submissions, and to learn how
you will be assessed on this assignment, please take a moment to review the rubric.
The manual will be submitted in three separate parts, at three suggested milestone times. Part 1
addresses Sections 1-5 of the overall manual, Part 2 addresses Sections 6-10, and Part 3
addresses Sections 11-12.
PC Build & Manual Part 1:
1. Workspace Preparation (LabSim 1.0)
2. Installing Motherboard (LabSim 3.3)
3. Installing Power Supply (LabSim 3.2)
4. Installing CPU (LabSim 3.4 and 3.10)
5. Installing RAM (LabSim 3.5) PC Build & Manual Part 2:
6. Installing Hard Drive (LabSim 5.4)
7. Installing Optical Drive (LabSim 5.6)
8. Installing Video Card (LabSim 3.8)
9. Connecting Monitors, Keyboard, and Mouse (LabSim 4.0)
10. BIOS Configuration (LabSim 3.6)
PC Build & Manual Part 3:
11. Installing Windows 7 (LabSim 10.3)
12. Configuring Critical Windows Features (LabSim 9.0 and 10.0) Computer Requirements use the motherboard provided on the shelf appropriate power supply that support the motherboard fastest processor possible (available on the shelf and compatible with the
motherboard) maximum memory possible in triple channel mode single hard drive single CD-DVD drive single video card Manual Sections In addition to including the sections listed below, your manual should address the environment in which the computer build will take place. For
example, what are the best practices when working in a carpeted room? not use computer jargon. Although the manual will be used to train new
technicians, it may also be used by someone with limited computer
knowledge, so the manual must be easy to understand. include explanations on methodology. For example, why is it important to
use an antistatic grounding bracelet when working with the computer? Or
why is it important to install memory sticks in pairs? The 12 sections of the overall manual are as follows:
1. Workspace Preparation (LabSim 1.0)
2. Installing Motherboard (LabSim 3.3)
3. Installing Power Supply (LabSim 3.2)
4. Installing CPU (LabSim 3.4 and 3.10)
5. Installing RAM (LabSim 3.5)
6. Installing Hard Drive (LabSim 5.4) 7. Installing Optical Drive (LabSim 5.6)
8. Installing Video Card (LabSim 3.8)
9. Connecting Monitors, Keyboard, and Mouse (LabSim 4.0)
10. BIOS Configuration (LabSim 3.6)
11. Installing Windows 10 (LabSim 10.3)
12. Configuring Critical Windows Features (LabSim 9.0, 10.0, 11.0, and 12.0)